The acoustic landscape is so heavily saturated with bird calls that there’s barely space left for us to speak. That doesn’t stop Tuhuna, our Ua Hukan guide, shouting instructions above the cacophony. Marquesan mingles with French. A few words of English are woven into the fabric for my benefit. I understand that I am to…

 The weather was warm and the cabins clean and cosy, and the food was fresh, exotic, and tasty. The sea was turquoise, clear and calm. The beaches were flat, soft and white with an occasional parasol for shade. The palms bore coconuts and the shrubbery was a luscious shade of green, yet it never rained?…

   Cap-Haitian goes by many names. Au Cap, O-kap, Cap Aysian, and, at one point not too long ago, “Paris of the Antillies”. The second largest city in Haiti, with its Carribean wealth and streets bearing French architecture, was lit with string lights, dotted with restaurant patios framed with vines overlooking the sea. The area…